Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: 95 points

($90; 15.8% with a pH of 3.3; Aubert owns this seven-acre planting of Wente clones) Bright yellow. Knockout nose combines underripe pineapple, lemon drop, apple, pear, crushed stone, spices and minerals, plus a whiff of goat cheese that reminded me of a Burgundy from pure calcaire Supersweet and rich but with lovely harmonious acidity giving cut and verve to the penetrating flavors of nectarine, pear and dried candied fruits. Wonderfully tactile and vibrant chardonnay with superb persistence and finishing perfume. Here's a wine that would do major damage as a ringer in a flight of Burgundy grand crus.

Review date: May 2009