ITEM 29441

2005 Domaine des Lambrays Clos de Lambrays Grand Cru (no capsule, slight label damage)


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burgundy cote de nuits


pinot noir


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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: 91-93 points

The 2005 Clos de Lambrays leads with hints of cedar and spruce resin (or is that actually ripe Pinot stems?), bitter-sweet florality, pungent spices, black tea, salt spray, iodine and Cote-Rotie-like smoked meats. Plum and cherry with a strong dose of skins and pits -- almost come as an aromatic afterthought. A subtly bitter, tart edge follows the flowers, meat and minerals onto the palate and helps lend profile and pungent energy to the wine, which sticks tenaciously to the palate as if it were exactly the sort of resin suggested in its aroma. This is serious in a rather somber way, and the abundance of tannin and sheer density of this wine suggest one wait 6-8 years before peeking beneath another cork. But I strongly suggest it will make excellent old bones, so my score could easily mislead. (I find the peppery, spicy, highly satisfying 2004 very nearly as good today, not to mention more charming and a better bet for the short run.) The average age of vines is quite old, incidentally, but Brouin refuses to print vieilles vignes on the label because he insists (rightly) that these two unregulated words are grossly abused.Thierry Brouin fermented largely whole clusters (Im a partisan of vendange entier, he says, provided the stems are ripe) and engaged in a more active regimen of punch downs than was typical this year. The result is structure to spare, and wines that make no concessions to early flattery. Unlike the wines of most vintners, Brouins 2005s underwent malo-lactic fermentation on a normal schedule, i.e. Spring, 2006.Also recommended: 2005 Morey-St. Denis ($60.00-65.00; 86+?). Importer:Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.

Review Date: 4/1/07