2003 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape

The powerful 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape comes closest in character to the 1990 (which is still drinking beautifully). Its dark ruby/plum/purple color is followed by sweet aromas of resiny pine forest interwoven with creme de cassis, black cherries, melted licorice, and smoky herbs. In the mouth, gamy, meaty flavors emerge along with black currants, cherries, and a hint of the sushi wrapper called nori. Full, rich, and moderately tannic, this 2003 requires another 1-3 years of bottle age, and should keep for 12-15 years. Review Date: February 2006

Hard as nails now, this is packed with ultraripe plum and blackberry fruit all supported by brawny, muscular tannins that romp through a licorice- and tar-filled finish. May be ferocious for some, but those who sock it away in the cellar will be rewarded. Best from 2008 through 2025. 5,000 cases made. ?JM Review Date: November 2005