2006 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino literally explodes onto the palate with masses of dark cherries, plums, wild herbs, menthol and spices. Hard candy and gorgeous inner perfume emerge from a sweet, ripe and totally expressive core. The finish is elegant, decisive and eternal. At times the Cerbaiona 2006 has been surprisingly dark and weighty while other tastings have shown the more finessed side of the wine. Either way, it is a Brunello to buy and bury in the deepest corner of the cellar. It is a mythical, legendary wine in the making. The Brunello spent 40 months in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.A visit to Cerbaiona is always a treat. Of all the Brunelli in the cellar the most promising appears to be the 2010, while vintages 2007, 2008 and 2009 are less interesting, at least today. Prices have gone up considerably, especially for the 2006 Brunello, and the Rosso is undoubtedly very expensive, but at their best, the Cerbaiona wines deliver the goods. This continues to be one of my favorite vineyard sites for fine, traditionally made Brunello. Both Diego and Nora Molinari have battled health issues of late. I know I am not alone in wishing them speedy recoveries.Importers: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484 Review Date: May 2011