2019 Timo Mayer Syrah Yarra Valley (Was $79.99)

German expat Timo Mayer is one of the natural wine kings of the Yarra Valley, known for his prodigious yet skillful use of whole-bunch fermentation. Here the technique adds a pretty, spicy lift to the brambleberry, floral and mineral notes. Less medicinal and more fruit-driven than the previous vintage, this has powdery tannins that temper the bouncy, crunchy fruit on the palate. The wine drinks gloriously well now but has the chops to cellar through 2028. Review Date: December 2021