2022 Domaine Marc Colin Saint-Aubin "En Montceau" 1er Cru

The 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Montceau is also a real success, mingling aromas of pear, orange oil and lemon with notions of freshly baked bread and white flowers in an inviting bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's deep and racy, with good concentration and a long, penetrating finish. The 2022 vintage is the finest I can remember tasting at Domaine Marc Colin—and with years such as 2017 and 2020, the last decade has been mostly benevolent. As readers will remember, now that the domaine is smaller following his two brothers' secessions, he is able to be ultra-precise about harvest date, sampling parcel by parcel, he tells me, and small volumes of wine mean longer élevage is feasible too. Percentages of new oak are modest, but foudres and larger barrels are also out of the picture, Damien finding most coopers' 228-liter barrels more consistent and in any case, better adapted to vinifying smaller quantities.